failure... sigh - Burda 2/2014 mod.112

Pensavo che a quest'ora il vestito sarebbe stato finito. Ma no. Cos'è andato storto? Ok, sto cercando di mantenere la calma. Sì. Calma. La mia mente è piena di pensieri positivi e cuoricini rosa e  gattini e splendidi tramonti. Ok. Cos'è andato storto, avete chiesto. Bene, capita che l'abito, tagliato nella mia taglia, abbia una circonferenza del petto di 106cm che, messo a confronto col mio petto di 89, dà  l'impressione davvero lusinghiera di indossare un sacco precedentemente occupato da uno o due quintali di patate.
Ora, non avrei dovuto fidarmi di Burda (davvero?!) e avrei dovuto fare una prova in tela o, almeno, misurare il petto sul cartamodello, ma permettetemi di domandare: qual è lo scopo di pubblicare la foto di un abito che ha vestibilità completamente differente da quello che si ottiene dal cartamodello? Probabilmente si tratta di una qualche specie di esercizio zen, tipo "mantieni la calma persino quando hai sprecato tempo, lavoro e (peggio) un tessuto magnifico". Ok quindi... tramonti positivi, gattini rosa... qualcosa del genere.

Ora, lo farò lo stesso, certo. Ho in mente di disfare il vestito e ridisegnarlo in una taglia più piccola, forse persino la 34, ma non sono ancora sicura per via del giromanica che potrebbe risultare troppo stretto. Per di più, la 34 ha un petto di 98 che è ancora troppo ampio per venire come nella foto. Perciò devo studiare. Lavorerò tutto il weekend, ma se avete suggerimenti o volete anche solo condividere la vostra ira (zen) per questo complotto tra il fotografo e il modellista di Burda... perché non lasciare un commento? :-)

quasi gemelle, vero? prometto che mostrerò la mia faccia,
ma non oggi e non con questo vestito ;-)
almost twins, right? I promise I'll show my face,
but not today, not with this dress ;-)

I thought the dress would've been finished right now. But no. What went wrong? Ok, I'm trying to keep calm. Yes. Calm. My mind is full of positive thoughts and pink little hearts and kitties and beautiful sunsets. Ok. What went wrong, you asked. Well, the dress, cutted in my size, happens to have a chest circumference of moreless 106cm that, compared to my chest of 89, gives a really flattering impression of being wearing a sack previously occupied by one or two tons of potatoes.
Now, I shouldn't have trusted Burda (really?!) and made a muslin or, at least, measure the chest on the pattern, but allow me to ask: what's the purpose of publishing a photo of a dress with a wearability completely different from the one in the pattern? Probably, it's some sort of zen exercise, like "keep your calm even when you've wasted time, work and (worst) a beautiful fabric". Ok so... positive sunsets, pink kitties... something like that.

Now, I'm doing it anyway, of course. I'm planning to undo the dress and redraw it in a smaller size, maybe even the 34, but I'm still not sure of it because of the armhole, which could result too tight. Furthermore, size 34 has a chest of moreless 98, which is still too much to be like in the photo. So I have to study. I'll work the whole weekend, but if you have suggestions or just want to share your (zen) anger about this conspiracy between Burda's photographer and pattern maker... why not leave a comment? :-)

7 commenti:

  1. oh, that is really bad for Burda! I really hope to save that super fabric, it is really gorgeous! I saw you message on the russian Burda , read it with the help of Google :), but I could not hold my self to replay :). please save the dress, the fabric really deserve that. I just read yesterday this blog http://tanysewsandknits.blogspot.nl/2014/02/20143-boucle-dress-o-vestido-de-boucle.html and she was also saying that this dress is a little on the wide side, seeing your it looks that is on the huge side ,sorry for the joke. But I also hate when that happens, an easy project that becomes a headache! Good luck and I will add your blog on my reading list. Regards,

    1. Thank you! The link you gave me is really interesting. I'd like to see that dress on, because on the dressform it doesn't look so bad. On me, thought, it looked REALLY bad.
      I made a muslin of size 34, which has a chest circumference of 98: it looks nice but I think that a couple of centimeters less will be even better. I have a chest of 89-90 and a wearability of 6cm is usually really nice.
      Obviously, size 34 on me has a lot of problems: armhole too tight, darts to high and too small, neckline too small too.
      You said it right, Camelia: this dress turned out to be a true headache.
      Thank you for the comment, it is really a great support for me, I mean it.

  2. Hi Luisa,
    I read your story on the Burdastyle.ru as well. My first thought was: omg, Italian girl sews Burda models?! Why? I adore your La Mia Boutique so much, but sorry, it's personal :) I got a design degree many years ago and since I understood how to design clothes I almost never use Burda patterns. If it goes about magazines I prefer Boutique or Patrones patterns. Just because almost every pattern from Burda should be corrected very hard :) Now I can only use an idea from that magazine.
    Well, about dress. You've got a lot of comments and advises already, and let me join them.
    In my opinion it's not your fault. They overdone with increase to the chest circumference and gave it as for winter coat (not a dress) at least. But if I can see right your sleeve, it's almost OK (I mean size). So I would do very simple thing. It should be little bit "sack", so let's count: 90 cm (your chest) + 8 cm max for sack silhouette, we get 98 cm. 8 cm less then this pattern. Take a pattern of the front part, cut from the centre about 2,5 cm, and do the same with the back part of dress pattern. In this way you will get rid of extra 8 cm of your dress. Then put new size patterns to the dress parts and cut extra from the sides. You have to fix the neckline after, but it's not a trouble I think. The raglan line will get shorter to save that square shape.
    I didn't write on our russian speaking forum because not everyone there speaks english and many people feel uncomfortable. And the more, I dislike Burda patterns, it's impolite to say this on Burda website :)
    Luisa, if you don't mind I wanna ask you to tell me what you gonna do with this dress. You can write me on Google+ or on the Burdastyle.ru (my name Nata-lisa there) or reply here, I will follow your news. Good luck with this and all next projects!
    My best wishes,
    Natasha, Ukraine

    1. Thank you, your sugestions are completely right. I'm working on them.
      I want to make this dress. The fabric is too pretty to be wasted and I have already cutted it so I need to go on with the project. Also, I can not afford to waste money on fabrics that don't become dresses... Luckily, I had a lot of suggestion also from the russian Burda and I think I can manage to make it work.
      I don't use only Burda patterns. Sometimes I use also La mia Boutique, or Vogue or Butterik. LA mia Boutique is nice for trousers. I find Burda more aestetically pleasing tough, but you're right, most patterns must be corrected -no, this is not exactly true: Burda patterns must be always first tried on muslin. It doesn't matter if a pattern is easy or complex, you need to make a muslin.
      Now I'm going to prepare the next small post with photos and comments about size 34. See you!

  3. Oh gosh I know Your pain ;( Don't know why they are changing sizes, one thing in 34 is good for me and another too small :/ wtf? :D And You are right, this fabric is awesome :) too bad it didn't came out as You expected ;( xoxo! http://vaylebyme.blogspot.com/

    1. True, for example, to have a better fit, I have to draw Burda trousers in a couple of sizes less, otherwise they'll look sooooo looooose on me. Furthermore, it can happen that an easy model turns out to be a real mess to fix, while a very complex model comes out quick and perfect. This is a pity, expecially for beginners that can be really discouraged.
      Oh, well. We must go on anyway!

  4. tra l'altro sembra che il giromanica sia piccolo rispetto all'abito o sbaglio?
    mmmmhhh in effetti, pur avendo utilizzato qualche modello burda e comprando spesso il giornale, mi chiedo come mai noi italiani...con un know how non da poco nel campo della moda, non abbiamo un giornale o linea di cartamodelli ...con tutto il rispetto per i tedeschi che in altri campi sono il max...
    ho avuto la fortuna l'anno scorso di frequentare un corso di modellismo..ora frequento il corso di cucito avanzato con lei e ti diro' che i cartamodelli che disegno con il suo sistema ..(ispirato a Le grand chic di qualche anno fa) non hanno quasi mai bisogno di modifiche..il che e' molto....rassicurante!!!

    ...it seams that th harmhole is too tight compared to the rest of the dress isn't it?
    I used sometimes burda patterns, and I often buy the magazine...but I always wondered why ... ..italians...,that we are something in fashion,...don't have a relevant pattern magazine....no offense for german that in other field are the best... ;)
    I had the chance, last year, to attend a pattern making class...now I am using what I have learnt in the advanced sewing course Im attending now..with the same teatcher...
    Ithe techinc she teatches is inspired by an old system called Le grand Chic... have to tell that the patterns don't need almost any alteration..that is very reassuring!!!!
    ciao Elena
    www.nucciefabo.blogspot.com or facebook : gatonero (ocio con una t sola)....